Yes! Fall is the best and most important time to fertilize your lawn. Feeding your lawn in the fall helps it to build up food reserves as winter approaches. The roots will be strong and healthy, and your lawn will be better prepared to green up quickly in spring. For cool-season grasses in the north, we recommend applying Milorganite around Labor Day and again around mid to late November before the first significant freeze or snowfall. For warm-season grasses in the south, apply Milorganite around Labor Day and again in early October or one month before dormancy or the average first-killing frost. Check out our blog to learn more about the many benefits of dormant lawn fertilization—also known as winter fertilization.

Avoid fertilizing southern warm-season grasses, Bermuda, St. Augustine, Centipedegrass, Bahia, and Zoysia, too late in the fall. The last time to fertilize warm-season grasses in fall is one month before dormancy or the average first-killing frost. Centipedegrass and Bahia grass prefer spring and summer feedings, and to help prevent winterkill, avoid fertilizing these varieties in the fall.
The grass is trying to go dormant, and when you fertilize, you’re encouraging it to grow, which may cause your lawn to be less hardy as it enters cold weather and more susceptible to winter injury. Visit our rate and schedule page for when and how much Milorganite to apply to your lawn, and check our blog, Seasonal Maintenance of Warm-Season (Southern) Grasses.

There are five things your lawn needs to thrive: sun, water, air, nutrients, and regular mowing. Fall is an excellent time to repair a stressed-out lawn, especially with the cooler temperatures and rainfall. Fertilize with Milorganite around Labor Day to help your lawn recover from the stress of summer! As the temperatures cool, your lawn focuses its energy on root growth and spreading outward instead of upward. Feeding your grass in early fall can help boost its density to better compete with weeds. Check out our blog for more tips on getting started repairing your lawn this fall.

You are not alone! Many of us are facing drought conditions this fall. Turf can go dormant for differing lengths of time depending on their genetics and overall health. Most established lawns can stay in a drought-dormant state for 3-4 weeks without dying. If the drought goes beyond four weeks, we recommend re-hydrating the lawn with deep, infrequent watering early in the day. Check out our blog for more tips on managing your lawn during fall drought.

Excellent work on your fall lawn care game! Immediately after aeration, your lawn is ripe for overseeding and fertilizing with Milorganite. The holes provide excellent soil exposure for grass seed and will deliver the fertilizer directly to the roots of your grass.  

Cool-season lawns should apply Milorganite again around mid to late November before the first significant freeze or snowfall. This "dormant" feeding helps your lawn build food reserves as winter approaches. The roots will be strong and healthy, and your lawn will be better prepared to green up quickly in spring.  View our blog to learn more about the many benefits of dormant lawn fertilization.

Fertilize warm-season grasses, like St Augustine, with Milorganite in the fall one month before dormancy or the average first-killing frost. Avoid fertilizing southern grasses too late in the fall. The grass is trying to go dormant, and when you fertilize, you’re encouraging it to grow. This may cause your lawn to be less hardy as it enters cold weather and more susceptible to winter injury. 
Applying too much nitrogen can actually weaken the grass. It encourages blade growth, but not root growth. The nutrients in Milorganite are released slowly over 8–10 weeks, so your lawn will get the nitrogen and greening iron it needs for at least two months. This provides even growth and better root development over a longer period of time instead of a sudden growth spurt and excessive grass clippings.

We recommend applying Milorganite fertilizer to your lawn 4 times per year or every 8-10 weeks during the grass growing season for best results. The timing when you fertilize will depend on whether you have northern (cool) season grass or southern (warm) season grass. Visit our Milorganite schedule and rate page for application timing this fall for your area.

Yes! Milorganite is a great fertilizer for overseeding. Mixing grass seed with Milorganite is an effective way to spread seed accurately. Mix 4 parts Milorganite with 1 part seed by weight. If you choose to mix Milorganite and seed, be careful to decrease future applications of Milorganite to prevent over-fertilization. View the Milorganite and Grass Seed Mixing Chart.

We recommend applying Milorganite fertilizer to your lawn four times annually for the best results. However, Milorganite can be applied at any time during the growing season, but at most every 8-10 weeks. Please see our lawn application page for rates and a schedule for your region of the country and grass species.

Most of us have several different grass species in our lawns, which have different green color appearances. Check out our Northern, Cool-Season and Southern, Warm-Season Grasses page to help identify what grasses you have. 
Nutrients from fertilizing your lawn can help bring out the best green grass species it can be, but it will never change its basic color. Check out our blog What Color Should My Grass Be? to learn more about grass type color and characteristics.

Plants need several things to grow, including sunlight, air, and water. We can’t control sunlight. There are a couple of things we can do to improve airflow around plants. And we can supplement rain when needed while following all local restrictions and ordinances.

Another critical aspect of growing healthy lawns and plants is nutrients. So, the answer to "What does Milorganite do?" is fairly simple: Milorganite provides plants with necessary nutrients over time for plants to grow healthy. As nutrients run low it’s time to replenish. Fertilization is the easiest way to get nutrients back into the soil.

Great question! Milorganite is different from most other fertilizers. Slow-release fertilizers derived from organic-based materials, such as Milorganite, help condition and feed the soil's ecosystem. Healthy soil grows healthy plants. Synthetic fertilizers quickly release nutrients to feed the plants and do very little to improve the soil's ecosystem. The quick hit of chemically based fertilizer may provide more immediate results than  Milorganite but for a shorter period of time. There's also a greater risk of nutrient run-off into area waterways when using synthetic fertilizers.

Another important characteristic of Milorganite that makes it different from chemical-based fertilizers is that it's less likely to burn. Milorganite is manufactured using organic materials. Using Milorganite, you won't accidentally end up with burned, brown rows in your lawn, as you might experience if you over-apply a synthetic fertilizer.

Milorganite also contains chelated iron, a form of iron that is more readily available to plants for a more extended period of time compared to iron sulfate because it doesn't need to remain on the surface of the grass blade. The iron in Milorganite helps maintain a greener lawn over a longer period of time and won't stain concrete or other surfaces.

For more information on using organic-based vs. synthetic and what makes Milorganite different from other fertilizers.

When you use Milorganite with other fertilizers, we caution you not to over-apply nitrogen fertilizer. Check the label of the product you applied for timing instructions. Typically, after 4-6 weeks, you can put down an application of Milorganite. Milorganite doesn't contain salts, so it will not burn your lawn, however, your lawn can only take up so many nutrients. Over-fertilization can result in nutrient runoff into our waterways and waste your money, product, and time. Over-fertilization can also stress out the turf plant and cause disease issues.

Apply Milorganite to your fruiting trees and shrubs when leaves lose their natural green color in fall. Apply one lb. of Milorganite fertilizer per tree per the tree's age. If your fruit tree is five years old, apply 5 lbs. of Milorganite. However, do not apply more than 16 lbs. per tree per year. Annual fertilizer applications are usually sufficient for good fruit yields. Pour into holes (1" wide x 12" deep) spaced 2 feet apart along the tree drip line. The second best option is to broadcast Milorganite in a circular band around the tree's drip line.

Yes! Golf courses across the USA continue to apply Milorganite to their courses. Learn more about Milorganite's history in the golf industry.

Southern Grasses, such as Zoysia, Bermuda, St. Augustine, Centipedegrass, and Bahia, should be fertilized with Milorganite four (4) times per year. 

Avoid fertilizing southern grasses too late in the fall. The grass is trying to go dormant, and when you fertilize, you’re encouraging it to grow. This may cause your lawn to be less hardy as it enters cold weather and more susceptible to winter injury. The last time to fertilize warm-season grasses in the fall is one month before dormancy or the average first-killing frost.

In spring, fertilize your warm-season grass with Milorganite after the last frost and once your lawn begins to grow green. A good rule of thumb is when daytime temperatures are consistently in the 70s which means soil temperatures are in the 60s. If you fertilize too early, the plant will focus on shoot growth, and you will sacrifice root growth. Deep roots help your lawn better withstand drought conditions during summer months. Check out our rates and schedule page for more information.

Proper lawn maintenance is the key to a healthy and lush lawn. Check out our lawn tips page for more guidance.

After mowing your new lawn three times, apply 64 lbs of Milorganite per 2,500 sq ft. Avoid fertilizing southern warm-season grasses too late in the fall. The grass is trying to go dormant and when you fertilize you’re encouraging it to grow. This may cause your lawn to be less hardy as it enters cold weather and more susceptible to winter injury. The last time to fertilize, warm-season grasses, in fall is one month before dormancy or the average first killing frost.

Northern cool-season grasses the last Milorganite application as late in the season as possible—just before the first deep freeze or snowfall (mid to late November). This fertilizer application, known as “dormant feeding,” encourages healthier, greener lawn in spring.

You can lay sod in the fall until the ground freezes, however it is recommended to sod large areas in early to mid fall or during the growing season. Check out our how to lay sod blog for steps and tips.

Typically, 10-25 feet between fertilizer applications and waterways to help prevent phosphorus runoff. The phosphorus in Milorganite® is in a recycled, “bound” form and is slowly released at a rate plant can use. This type of phosphorus significantly reduces the likelihood of leaching or runoff.

Please check with your local state laws for the minimum distance to fertilize away from bodies of water. Your local cooperative extension agency is an excellent resource to assist with specific information on local turf best management practices.

Always follow the recommended fertilizer application rates to help keep fertilizer from entering any bodies of water, and do not fertilize before heavy rainfall. After fertilizing, sweep excess fertilizer from solid surfaces, such as driveways, decks, patios, streets, and sidewalks, back into the lawn.

If you have a well, be cautious when fertilizing your lawn and stay 10-20 feet from the well. Opt for organic, natural fertilizers, like Milorganite®, that are slow-release whenever possible, as chemical fertilizers can more easily leach into the groundwater and contaminate your well water. 

Yes, Milorganite can be used as part of your overall fertilization and lawn-care program in combination with other products, including fertilizers, herbicides, pesticides, and fungicides. Make sure to read the label of the other product to ensure there aren’t any restrictions and it’s safe for your lawn to use it in conjunction with Milorganite. Look for phrases such as, “not to be used in combination with…”

When using Milorganite along with other fertilizers that contain nitrogen, make sure you don’t apply too much nitrogen. When you use Milorganite with other fertilizers we caution to not over-apply nitrogen fertilizer. 

Typically, after 4-6 weeks you can put down an application for Milorganite. Milorganite doesn't contain salts so it will not burn your lawn, however, your lawn can only take up so many nutrients. Over-fertilization can result in nutrient runoff into our waterways, wasted money, product, and time. Over-fertilization can also stress out the turf plant and cause disease issues.

Milorganite can be used as your starter fertilizer. Immediately after aeration, your lawn is ripe for overseeding and fertilizing with Milorganite. The holes provide excellent soil exposure for grass seed and will deliver the fertilizer directly to the roots of your grass. Milorganite's slow-release nitrogen won't burn tender new seedlings, but most importantly it has phosphorus to help with root growth as possible. Milorganite 85% organic matter helps building the overall soil health. For application rates when overseeding and seeding tips.

We don't recommend using a variety of iron supplements on your lawn. Lawns can use only a limited amount of any nutrient, including iron. Over-application can result in run-off into waterways, and it's a waste of money.

The iron in Milorganite works like chelated iron but without the expense. It also won't burn your lawn and releases into the soil where  plants need it, compared to foliar applications (applying liquid directly to leaf) of iron that is gradually removed when the lawn is mowed.
Milorganite, including its iron, breaks down slowly and is available to plants as microorganisms in the soil use it as a food source. It's non-staining, so there'll be no rust stains on your driveway or walkways. It's also long-lasting, which means fewer applications compared to other types of iron.

Homeowners often have a color in mind for their "perfect  lawn color," typically we hear a dark blue-green color. Nutrients can bring out the best green a grass species can be, but it will never change its basic color. For more information on what color green your grass species should be, check out our blog.

One of Milorganite's many benefits is it will not burn and can be applied to a dry or wet lawn. It's not necessary to water in Milorganite after application. Milorganite stays in the soil until water and temperature conditions are just right for soil microbes to break down the nutrients in for plants to use. Although not necessary,  watering in Milorganite will ensure the fertilizer is in contact with the soil and speed up the fertilization process.

Poultry may peck at the dark Milorganite granules, thinking they are grit.  They are not grit and may cause intestinal problems when taken up in large quantities.  Therefore, we do not recommend using Milorganite in areas where poultry are housed and kept.

As with all fertilizers, we recommend several “safe practices.”  First, apply when animals are not present.  This is to prevent a broadcast spreader from throwing granules into animals’ eyes or spooking them by hitting their bodies.  If you are rotating pastures, fertilize when you take your animals out.  If you are not rotating pastures, fertilize when they are being watered or otherwise away from grazing areas.  If you can, fertilizer just before a rain or irrigating as this will wash the granules into the soil.  This practice will also speed up the breakdown of Milorganite into the nitrogen, phosphorus and iron components which feed plants.

Correct, per state regulations in Florida, apply Milorganite two times per year at the rate of 32 lbs. per 5,200 sq ft. As a general rule, for the first fertilizer application of the year should be early April in central Florida and mid-April in north Florida, second application early fall.

Avoid fertilizing southern grasses too late in the fall. The grass is trying to go dormant and when you fertilize you’re encouraging it to grow. This may cause your lawn to be less hardy as it enters cold weather and more susceptible to winter injury. The last time to fertilize, warm-season grasses, in fall is one month before dormancy or the average first killing frost.

Check with local ordinances for fertilizer blackout dates and for specific application times based on your particular turf species, contact your local horticulture extension office or the University of Florida has some helpful information.

When you use Milorganite with other fertilizers we caution to not over-apply nitrogen fertilizer. Check the label of the product you applied for timing instructions. Typically, after 4-6 weeks you can put down an application of Milorganite.

Milorganite doesn't contain salts so it will not burn your lawn, however, your lawn can only take up so many nutrients. Over-fertilization can result in nutrient runoff into our waterways, waste money, product, and time. Over-fertilization can also stress out the turf plant and cause disease issues.

Potassium (K) is necessary for optimum plant health. K plays more of a behind-the-scenes role compared to nitrogen or phosphorous. K helps improve water retention and disease resistance and protects plants from cold.

A soil test is always best to help identify what nutrients your soil needs to grow a healthy lawn. Your local university extension office is an excellent resource for soil testing and turf recommendations for your local area.

Southern Grasses, such as Bermuda, St. Augustine, Centipedegrass, Bahia, and Zoysia, should be fertilized with Milorganite four times per year. 

Avoid fertilizing southern grasses too late in the fall. The grass is trying to go dormant, and when you fertilize, you’re encouraging it to grow. This may cause your lawn to be less hardy as it enters cold weather and more susceptible to winter injury. The last time to fertilize warm-season grasses in the fall is one month before dormancy or the average first-killing frost.

In spring, fertilize your warm-season grass with Milorganite after the last frost and once your lawn begins to grow green. A good rule of thumb is when daytime temperatures are consistently in the 70s which means soil temperatures are in the 60s. If you fertilize too early, the plant will focus on shoot growth, and you will sacrifice root growth. Deep roots help your lawn better withstand drought conditions during summer months. Check out our rate & schedule page for more information.

For more tips maintaining your lawn, visit our blog Seasonal Maintenance of Warm-Season (Southern) Grasses.

Tests have detected low levels of Per- and poly-fluoroalkyl substances (PFAS) chemicals in Milorganite fertilizer, under 20 parts per billion (ppb). The Wisconsin Department of Natural Resources PFAS interim strategy is 20 parts per billion PFAS or less for a biosolid fertilizer like Milorganite.

For context, one part per billion is approximately one pinch of salt in 10 tons of potato chips. By contrast, dust in the average home is 523 parts per billion (ppb) PFAS, lipstick contains 216 to 1,560 ppb PFAS, and fast-food packaging is 7,000 to 876,000 ppb PFAS. To learn more about PFAS, view the PFAS fact sheet.

We do not use PFAS to make Milorganite fertilizer – we are a passive recipient of PFAS from the wastewater coming into our water reclamation facilities. PFAS concentrations in biosolids vary significantly depending on local conditions, such as the type of water supply, fire suppression training sites, and industries that manufacture or use PFAS. For Milorganite, local conditions that contribute to the production of our product favor low concentrations.

National and local PFAS standards and testing protocols for biosolid fertilizers like Milorganite are still forthcoming. For more information on the EPA's actions to address PFAS.

Lawn spreader manufacturers and models vary by region, and finding the right spreader for you depends on your lawn and preferences. There are two types of lawn spreaders: drop and broadcast, also known as a rotary spreader. There are two types of broadcast spreaders: walk-behind and hand-held. All spreaders have a hopper to hold the product and an adjustable opening to control the volume of fertilizer or seed you distribute. Check out our blog for help with what kind of lawn spreader to use.

If your lawn spreader model is not on the back of the Milorganite bag or listed on our spreader setting page, please go to How to Calibrate a Spreader page for instructions and a video of six easy steps to ensure Milorganite you apply at the proper rate.

It's a good idea to calibrate your spreader it only takes six steps to ensure you apply at the proper rate of Milorganite to your lawn.

Walk at a steady pace since you are an important part of the distribution rate equation. The slower you walk, the more product will be distributed, and less is distributed when you walk faster. That is often the reason fertilizer application rates can vary.

First, apply a header strip—two overlapping passes—of fertilizer around the perimeter of your lawn for easier turns. Start along the longest edge of your lawn. Close the spreader off when making turns to avoid uneven application. For more spreader application tips, visit our lawn spreader blog.

When seeding, Milorganite helps accelerate development, and the salt-free formula will never burn tender new roots. 
Milorganite can be used when filling in bare patches or overseeding your lawn. When overseeding your lawn, mixing grass seed with Milorganite is an effective way to spread seed. Mix 4 parts Milorganite with 1 part seed by weight. If you choose to mix Milorganite and seed, be careful to decrease future applications of Milorganite to prevent over-fertilization. For more tips on filling bare patches or overseeding, visit our seed application page. 

A healthier lawn comes with healthier soil, and there is no better way to improve soil health than by adding compost.

Compost contains the primary nutrients — nitrogen, phosphorous, and potassium — and an array of micro-nutrients to naturally feed a lawn. But there are many other benefits as well.

Topdressing a lawn with compost adds organic matter to the soil, which provides for proper drainage and better tilth. That organic matter also hosts beneficial microorganisms that turn organic fertilizer and minerals in the soil into plant-available nutrients that can be taken up by roots.

You can topdress with compost at any time when the ground is not frozen, but if you topdress right after aerating a lawn, you will see even better results. Another great time to topdress with compost is when overseeding a lawn.

Applying compost and seeds at the same time will improve germination and moisture retention. Check out our blog for tips and the steps to topdress your lawn with compost.

A soil test is the first step to help identify what nutrients your soil needs to grow a healthy lawn. Your local university extension office is an excellent resource for soil testing.

There are five things your lawn needs: sun, water, air, nutrients, and regular mowing. All lawns can benefit from following good lawn care practices. Check the thatch layer, which, if too thick, is over an inch and can block nutrients and water. Aerating your lawn and following up with topdressing with compost to improve the soil and overseeding by mixing seed and Milorganite (4 to 1 ratio) in the fall or spring to help build thicker grass to help outcompete the weeds.

Milorganite recommends a mix of grass varieties covering various growing conditions in your yard. Check out our blog for tips on selecting grass seed. For advice on which grass varieties grow best in your area, contact your local extension office, and they should be able to provide you with information.

If no more than 30 to 50% of your lawn is filled with weeds or damaged, renovation can help you boost its appearance without killing the grass  and starting over. If your lawn is more than 50-60 percent weeds or bare soil starting over will provide the best long-term results. Use this opportunity to create a great foundation for growing a healthy lawn.

First, uou must kill any existing grass and weeds before preparing the soil. You can kill the existing lawn and weeds by applying a non-selective herbicide, such as glyphosate, over the entire area. Glyphosate is a postemergence herbicide that kills turf and broadleaf weeds. Please consider natural grass removal options that are environmentally friendly, like digging up the grass, smothering the grass, or solarization.

Next, mix several inches of organic matter and Milorganite into the top 6 to 8 inches of soil before planting grass seed or sod. Follow the application instructions for the grass seed you are growing.

Keep the seeded area moist until the seeds emerge. The seedlings need frequent gentle watering until ½ to 1 inch tall. When conditions allow, reduce watering several times a week at a depth of 1 to 2 inches.  Decrease the frequency and increase the depth of watering as seedlings  mature.

After you have mowed your new lawn three times, then apply 64 lbs. of Milorganite per 2,500 sq ft. Check out the Milorganite agronomist's  journey when starting her new lawn from seed or for tips on how to patch bares spots in your lawn.

If crabgrass continues to be an problem in your lawn you can use a pre-emergent herbicide in spring to help prevent crabgrass, poa annua (annual bluegrass) and foxtail. Allyn Hane, The Lawn Care Nut, shares his tips on what pre-emergent herbicide to buy (granular or liquid as well as active ingredient) and when to apply it.

Dormancy is a mechanism that grasses use to avoid conditions when inadequate moisture is available. Grasses have the ability to go dormant for differing lengths of time depending on their genetics and overall health. Most established lawns can stay in a drought-dormant state for 3-4 weeks without dying. If the drought goes beyond 4 weeks, it’s recommended to rehydrate the lawn with deep, infrequent watering early in the day.

If your lawn is not bouncing back after fall rain and cooler weather, check to see if your lawn may have a lawn disease. Check out our lawn diseases page to help you identify the disease and what you can do to manage it.

In the fall, you can help reinvigorate your lawn; it's the most important time of year for lawn care. View our fall lawn care blog for tips on what to do in your lawn this fall - aerate, overseed, and apply Milorganite.

First, great job adding Milorganite when you were seeding to help accelerate seed development, and the salt-free formula will never burn tender new roots.

Fertilize your new lawn once you've mowed the lawn three times. It's best to provide newly seeded lawns with all the nutrients they need from the start and to use a starter fertilizer, which is blended specifically for new lawns. It provides nitrogen to help with germination and top growth and a quick shot of phosphorus for better root development. Milorganite can be used as a starter fertilizer; it's slow-release, low-nitrogen, for a prolonged feeding. It won't burn the emerging seedlings and significantly reduces the risk of runoff.

Application rates vary when starting a new lawn from seed and depend on the grass variety, soil type, organic material present,  and local fertilization restrictions. In general, use 50–100 lbs. of  Milorganite per 1,000 sq. ft. for sandy soil and 25–50 sq. ft. for native soil. Also, use the higher rate for soil that would benefit from additional organic matter and grass varieties that prefer higher amounts of nitrogen, such as Kentucky bluegrass and Bermuda grass.

University research recommends the height of the Kentucky Bluegrass once it has been mowed at 2.5 to 3.5 inches.

Allowing the grass to stay tall encourages deeper root growth. Tall grass also helps keep weed seeds from germinating — especially those crabgrass seeds that need light to germinate. Keeping the lawn tall throughout the summer will keep the surface of the soil from drying out and reduce the need for watering. Visit our mowing page for more tips.

Mixing grass seed with Milorganite is an effective way to spread seed accurately. Mix 4 parts Milorganite with 1 part seed by weight. If you choose to mix Milorganite and seed, be careful to decrease future applications of Milorganite to prevent over-fertilization. Check out our seeding page for Milorganite Seed Mixing Chart rates.

Yellow grass blades can be a sign of low nutrients or too little water, too much water, blunt cutting blades on your mower, or a lawn disease. 

First, ensure you properly water your lawn; most lawns need 1" of water per week. Soak the lawn deeply instead of a quick mist. This watering strategy improves growth and conserves water compared to more frequent, light watering, which encourages shallow roots and makes lawns more susceptible to disease.

The next step is to sharpen your mower blades. Dull mower blades don't cut grass; they tear it. Frayed blades of grass dry out quickly and make your lawn more susceptible to damage from insects and diseases. Mower blades should be re-sharpened 2–3 times per year.

Check out our lawn disease page to help identify if a disease is present. Yellowing grass blades may be brown patch disease, which results in circular brown patches up to 3 feet in diameter that develop during hot, wet weather. The grass blades will be a dark yellow to light orange, and when you pull out a few blades, the basal area (bottom of the blade) will be black.

Your grassroots may be shallow or not growing properly due to improper watering, poor drainage, poor quality soil (compacted or clay soil, low organic matter), a lawn disease, or lawn pests like grubs. 

Start by reviewing your watering techniques and get a soil test done at your local university extension office. Check out our lawn disease page and our blog on How to Identify and Treat Your Lawn for Grubs.
Another way to encourage deep-rooted grass is with proper lawn fertilization. Milorganite's slow-release nitrogen, other nutrients, and 85% organic matter help feed the soil and promote deep roots. 

The good news is fall is the ideal time to seed or sod your lawn. In fall, daytime and soil temperatures are still warm, and cool nights help the grass establish. There's also less competition with weeds in the fall. The goal is for the new lawn to mature enough to survive winter. 
First, be cautious of tilling near your new sewer, water, or gas lines, you DO NOT want to till too deep. Call Diggers Hotline (800) 242-8511 to have the lines marked so you can avoid these areas with the tiller and grade these areas with a rake by hand.
Milorganite's agronomist shares her story of seeding her entire lawn in a four-part blog series and videos that will help guide you on the steps to take to grow a beautiful and healthy new lawn. Check out Part #1 - From Seed to Lawn.  

Milorganite recommends aerating your lawn using a core aerator. It removes cores of soil about the width of a dime and about 4” long—the deeper the core the better. Cores are pulled out about every 4-6”, depending on the aerator—the more holes, the better.
Core aerators are generally available for hourly rental at garden centers and big box stores, or you can call your local landscape company to do the job for you. You’ll probably want to go in on the rental with a neighbor or two to divide the cost and labor. Core aerators are very heavy and awkward and will require more muscle than one person can provide. You’ll also need a full-sized truck bed. Visit our lawn aeration blog for more information on aerating your lawn.

Urine spots are a common problem in lawns with dogs. The nitrogen and excess salts in the dog’s urine are usually to blame for the damage. Diluting the urine is one way to prevent the dead spots, but following around your neighborhood dogs with a watering can or hose is not very practical!

You can find products to neutralize urine, but most do not have good reviews for being very effective. 
We recommend speeding up the recovery by reseeding the brown spots. Remove all dead grass and thoroughly water the area to dilute any remaining lactic acid out of the soil. Prepare your soil by incorporating several inches of organic matter, such as compost into the top 6 inches of soil. Purchase a lawn patch kit or make your and gently work the seed and Milorganite mix into the soil 1/16 to 1/8 of an inch. Light (sandy) soils may only require watering for seed incorporation.

Keep the seeded area moist until the seeds emerge. The seedlings need frequent gentle watering until ½ to 1 inch tall. When conditions allow, reduce watering several times a week at a depth of 1 to 2 inches. Decrease the frequency and increase the depth of watering as seedlings mature. Check out our blog on repairing patches in your lawn. 

Yes! Great work on creating your own compost. You can fill in low spots in the lawn with compost and mix in Milorganite if you are trying to fill in bare spots in your yard.

If you have extra compost try topdressing your lawn with compost to add organic matter to the soil, which provides for proper drainage and better tilth. That organic matter also hosts beneficial microorganisms that turn organic fertilizer and minerals in the soil into plant-available nutrients that can be taken up by roots.

Lime should only be applied if a soil test indicates that it’s needed to change the pH of the soil to be either more acidic or alkaline. Check with your local university extension office to help with a soil test.

Florida University shares "I have had hundreds of soil test results and only one person has ever had to add lime. I know it is a common practice in northern states to add lime to lawns, but our lawngrass prefers an acid soil (low pH). Please do not add lime to your Florida yards unless you have had a soil test that indicates you need it."

An optimum pH of 6.0 or 7.0 helps bring soil into balance and allows for optimum nutrient uptake by plants. Milorganite fertilizer can be applied at the same time as lime, as there is no interaction between the two. Ohio State University Extension shares tips for those growing northern cool-season lawns and want to learn more about applying lime to your lawn.

There are many possible causes for the lumps, bumps, dips, and holes in your lawn. Eventually, every lawn will need a little leveling to remove the irregularities. Depressions in the soil may collect water, causing drainage issues that can kill areas of your lawn. 
The first step is to identify the cause of the uneven terrain. Then, you can decide on the best treatment for a long-term solution. If you try to fix the problem without identifying the cause, you could waste your time when the bumps or valleys return to your lawn. Check out our blog "how to improve a lumpy lawn" for help identifying the cause and options to level out your lawn.

There are five things your lawn needs: sun, water, air, nutrients, and regular mowing. If you haven't yet, a soil test is the first step to help identify what nutrients your soil needs to grow a healthy lawn. Your local university extension office is an excellent resource for soil testing.

If trimming your trees is an option it can help provide more sun to the lawn. If not, try growing more shade-tolerant grass species. Check out our blog for more information on selecting grass seed.

Another great option is to work with nature and add plants that grow well in the shade. Learn more about how to create a shade garden.

Thank you for the pictures, but it is hard to determine your grass species with a picture. Check out our lawn species page to help identify what grass you have.

There are five things every lawn needs: sun, water, air, nutrients, and regular mowing. Proper lawn maintenance is the secret to growing a healthy lawn. Once you identify your lawn type, ensure you mow often and at the recommended height.

You may need to dethatch your lawn if your lawn and soil are waterlogged. A thatch layer greater than one inch acts as a barrier to water,  nutrients, and air reaching the soil and should be removed to ensure a healthy lawn. Learn how to reinvigorate a lawn by removing the thatch.

Soil preparation is essential when growing grass seed. Prepare your soil by incorporating several inches of organic matter, such as compost and Milorganite, into the top 6-8 inches. View the chart for the Milorganite application rate based on your soil type. Milorganite helps accelerate seed development, and the salt-free formula will never burn tender new roots. Light (sandy) soils may only require watering for seed incorporation.

Keep the seeded area moist until the seeds emerge. The seedlings need frequent gentle watering until ½ to 1 inch tall. When conditions allow, reduce watering several times a week at a depth of 1 to 2 inches. Decrease the frequency and increase the depth of watering as seedlings mature.

After mowing your new lawn three times, apply 64 lbs. of Milorganite per 2,500 sq ft. Check out our blog on the Milorganite agronomist's journey when starting her new lawn from seed and for tips on how to patch bare spots in your lawn.

Naturally, deep-rooted grasses that establish quickly, such as turf-type tall fescue grasses, are an option for erosion-prone spots. Fast-germinating annual and perennial ryegrasses help stabilize slopes quickly and control erosion while deeper-rooted grasses become established and take hold.  See starter mats can also help to grow grass on a slope or hill. 

Here are some grasses that can grow well on hills:

• Tall fescue: A fast-growing grass that forms a dense network of deep roots. It's also drought-tolerant and can tolerate partial shade.
•  Bluegrass: Can spread over time to help stabilize slopes and prevent erosion.
•  Ryegrass: An annual or perennial that germinates quickly and helps stabilize slopes.

Other plants that can grow well on hills include:

• Liriope: A short, dense perennial that looks like grass but isn't. It's fast-growing and has purple flowers in spring.
•  Sedums: A drought-tolerant succulent that can be used as groundcover.
• Periwinkle: A plant that can grow well on hills and slopes.

Your local county extension office is a great resource for recommendations on the best grass seed for your area.

Growing grass in the high altitudes like in Colorado can be tricky! To grow grass in rocky and sandy soil, focus on amending the soil with organic matter like compost to improve water retention and choose drought-tolerant grass seed varieties suited for Colorado conditions. Your local university extension office is an excellent resource for the grass species that grow best in your area and timing for seeding and lawn repair.

Another option is to work with nature and grow native grasses and plants that may grow better in your climate and soil type.

Check out our grass species page to identify the grass in your lawn. The proper mowing height depends on the variety of grass you are growing. Mowed height is the height of the lawn once it has been mowed.

Dull mower blades don't cut grass; they tear it. Frayed blades of grass can damage the tips of the grass and cause them to turn brown and dry out quickly making your lawn more susceptible to damage from insects and diseases. Mower blades should be re-sharpened 2–3 times per year.

The best way to mow is often. Follow the one-third rule for a thriving lawn. Never cut away more than one-third of the grass blade in any one mowing. This keeps the grass at optimal height for root development. Stronger and deeper roots mean a healthier lawn.

Moss in your lawn is usually a sign that the conditions in your lawn aren't ideal for turf to grow. Some common reasons for moss growth include poor drainage, compacted soil, insufficient sunlight, or cutting the lawn too short.

Thatch is a layer of living and dead stems, roots, and crowns that develop between the green vegetation and the soil surface. A thatch layer greater than one inch acts as a barrier to water, nutrients and air reaching the soil and should be removed to ensure a healthy lawn. Learn how to check your thatch layer and if you need to dethatch.

Aerating your lawn can help with compacted soil, drainage, and to promote healthy root growth. Aeration is the removal of a small core of soil or the punching of a thin hole into the soil. Learn when is the ideal time and how to aerate your lawn. After aerating is an ideal time to overseed and apply Milorganite.

If you can't improve the growing conditions (sunlight, drainage), consider planting shade-loving plants in the area instead of trying to grow grass.

Creeping bentgrass is one of the premier turfgrasses for golf course fairways, tees and putting greens because it recovers from traffic and divoting, but it is not desirable in traditional lawns. In the lawn it forms dense irregular circular patches of turf that disrupt uniformity. Kansas State University shares non-chemical and chemical options to manage bentgrass in the lawn.

You have a challenge with not being able to renovate the plot. No matter your soil type, organic matter such as compost, aged manure, or peat moss can help improve the soil. Since you are not able to incorporate several inches of organic matter into the top 6-8 inches of soil to help improve the water-holding ability of fast-draining soil and increase drainage in heavy, slow-draining soils, you can apply grass seed and Milorganite and topdress with inch or two of compost on the plot to help improve the soil.

Check our blog for questions and information to help you narrow down your choice of grass varieties suitable for your area and help you make the decision of which are best suited for growing your plot.

If the growing conditions can't be change you may want to consider planting annual and perennial plants in the plot that are low-maintenance and look beautiful.

Check with your local landscape distributors for the Milorganite Professional 50 lb bag, our Greens Grade product with smaller granules. For the proper application, you will need to adjust your spreader settings.

Milorganite fertilizer NPK (nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium) has never been a 10-10-10 NPK; since our product is an organic-based fertilizer from recycled nutrients in the wastewater, we do not add nutrients like a synthetic fertilizer. Milorganite is a 6-4-0 NPK and available at your local garden centers in a 5 lb and 32 lb bag, but is most commonly available in the larger 32 lb bag. 

The significant increase in phosphorus in one year is dramatic; if you are using an at-home soil test, we recommend having a soil lab at a local university extension office run the numbers. 

We recommend also checking the soil pH; if it's high, it can sometimes keep the phosphorus bound in the soil. The makeup of every soil is different, and some soils can tie up phosphorus longer than others. 

If your phosphorus levels are high, use a phosphorus-free fertilizer and collect your grass clippings. Another approach is to use Milorganite as your spring fertilizer application when the lawn is setting down roots for the season and then use a phosphorus-free fertilizer for the remainder of the year.

We encourage our customers not to over-apply Milorganite. The salt-free formula won't burn your lawn; however, your lawn can only take up so many nutrients. Milorganite's application rates and schedule are based on university research, which studied the amount and frequency of nutrients needed for a healthy lawn. We caution that over-fertilization can result in nutrient runoff into waterways, creating environmental issues.

Potassium (potash) helps the grass build thicker cell walls, which strengthens the plant so it can withstand external stresses such as drought, heat, cold, and disease.
We recommend having a soil test taken to see if your lawn needs more potassium.  Typically, it’s a nutrient that we see sufficient amounts of in the soil, but a soil test is always best. You can get a soil test kit at our local garden store, online, and at your local Cooperative Extension Office.

Milorganite fertilizer is a byproduct of the Milwaukee Metropolitan Sewerage District’s water reclamation process: treating wastewater for safe a return to Lake Michigan. Toward the end of the process, the nutrient-rich solid material and the clarified water go their separate ways. With an additional kiln-drying process, the material becomes Milorganite. The clarified water is disinfected and returned to Lake Michigan. Therefore, we cannot take out any nutrients found in the wastewater that creates Milorganite. Check out our blog about how we make Milorganite.

Research conducted by the University of Florida compared the slow-release phosphorus found in Milorganite to fertilizers with other synthetic sources of phosphorus. It demonstrated that the insoluble, bound form of phosphorus in Milorganite, which is more readily available to plants,  is significantly less likely to leach. The phosphorus is released at a rate and amount plants can use rather than rapidly, which can contribute to nutrient runoff.

Opposite conditions encourage dollar spot to develop in the lawn: drought soils and prolonged wet foliage. Address both by watering deeply and infrequently early in the day to allow the leaf blades to dry off and not remain wet for long periods.
Fertilizing regularly with Milorganite will help your grass overcome this lawn disease. Mow unaffected areas first and diseased areas last to avoid infecting a healthy lawn. Collect and dispose of grass clippings in the garbage when the dollar spot lawn disease is present. To avoid spreading the fungus, after mowing, clean the mower blades by rinsing them with water and drying them with a cloth. For more tips on managing dollar spot and other lawn diseases, visit our lawn disease page.

Thanks for sharing the photo of your lawn, but it's hard to tell for sure by a picture. Check out our lawn disease page to help you identify the issue.

Large Patch might be the culprit caused by the pathogen Rhizoctonia solani, which is the same disease found in cool-season turf, especially turf-type tall fescue, called Brown Patch. This lawn fungus forms irregular ring shapes in the lawn, and where the disease is most active, the grass blades will be a dark yellow to light orange, and when you pull out a few blades, the basal area (bottom) will be black. Check out our blog, How to Manage Large Patch Lawn Disease, to learn more.

A common reason for brown spots in your lawn is drought, dog spots, or a disease. Lawn diseases occur when three factors are present: a plant that’s susceptible, a favorable environment, and the disease itself. The correct environment could be too much water or not enough, or too much rain or not enough, depending on the disease and the plant.
Our Common Lawn Diseases page has images to help you visually identify the disease you may be dealing with, as well as the type of grass affected, symptoms when you’ll typically see it, and how to manage it.
 

Three factors cause lawns to become diseased:
•    A disease-causing pathogen 
•    Susceptible grass species
•    A favorable environment for the pathogen
A lawn disease will blossom if all three criteria occur simultaneously for a time period the pathogen needs to settle in. If any of these three criteria isn’t present, your lawn should be disease-free.
 The first step we recommend is to identify the lawn fungus on your lawn. Take a close look at the fungus areas in the lawn, look for a pattern of the damage, and check the green grass blades on the edge of the fungus for more clues. Review our Seasonal Lawn Disease Guide to help narrow down the possibilities. 
Once you have gathered this information, visit our Lawn Disease page for more detailed information and photos to help diagnose and manage the disease.  
The turf diseases listed are rarely detrimental to your lawn, and fungicides generally aren’t needed for treatment. These diseases could harm the environment and simply be a waste of money. Proper lawn care is the best option for preventing and treating these common turf diseases.

It sounds like your lawn may have slime mold, a “primitive” saprophytic fungi that engulfs decaying organic matter, bacteria, and protozoa in the soil or thatch. Slime mold pustules typically disappear after 2 to 3 days; control practices are not needed. However, slime mold pustules can be removed if the growth is unsightly. Mowing or light raking is an effective means of destroying the crusty fruiting bodies of a slime mold. Washing the affected patches of turf with a hard stream of water can also break up the slime mold and restore the beauty of a lawn. Because slime molds may be more common on heavily thatched or poorly drained portions of a lawn, renovation of affected areas should reduce the incidence of disease. For more information: https://www.aces.edu/blog/topics/lawn-garden/slime-molds-on-home-lawns/ 

Necrotic ringspot (NRS) is a perennial disease of Kentucky bluegrass. NRS results in circular or doughnut-shaped patches of dead grass. A combination of good turf management practices and fungicide applications can suppress NRS. Check out the Colorado State University Extension website for advice on NRS disease management.

Yellow grass blades can be a sign of low nutrients or too little water, too much water, blunt cutting blades on your mower, or a lawn disease. 

First, ensure you properly water your lawn; most lawns need 1" of water per week. Soak the lawn deeply instead of a quick mist. This watering strategy improves growth and conserves water compared to more frequent, light watering, which encourages shallow roots and makes lawns more susceptible to disease.

The next step is to sharpen your mower blades. Dull mower blades don't cut grass; they tear it. Frayed blades of grass dry out quickly and make your lawn more susceptible to damage from insects and diseases. Mower blades should be re-sharpened 2–3 times per year.

Check out our lawn disease page to help identify if a disease is present. Yellowing grass blades may be brown patch disease, which results in circular brown patches up to 3 feet in diameter that develop during hot, wet weather. The grass blades will be a dark yellow to light orange, and when you pull out a few blades, the basal area (bottom of the blade) will be black.

It sounds like you may have lawn disease, which is reoccurring each year. Three factors cause lawns to become diseased:
•    A disease-causing pathogen
•    Susceptible grass species
•    A favorable environment for the pathogen

A lawn disease will blossom if all three criteria occur simultaneously for a time period the pathogen needs to settle in. If any of these three criteria isn’t present, your lawn should be disease-free.
The first step we recommend is to identify the lawn disease on your lawn. Take a close look at the areas in the lawn, look for a pattern of the damage, and check the green grass blades on the edge of the fungus for more clues. Review our Seasonal Lawn Disease Guide to help narrow down the possibilities.
Once you have gathered this information, visit our Lawn Disease page for more detailed information and photos to help diagnose and manage the disease.  
The turf diseases listed are rarely detrimental to your lawn, and fungicides generally aren’t needed for treatment. These products can harm the environment and be a waste of money. Proper lawn care is the best option for preventing and treating these common turf diseases.

The University of Florida Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences shares that often alkaline soils occur in the home landscape as a result of calcium carbonate-rich building materials (i.e., concrete, stucco, etc.) that may have been left in the soil following construction. Soils that contain limestone, marl or seashells are also usually alkaline in nature.

There are a few measures that can be taken in order to combat high pH. Incorporating soil amendments containing organic material is the most common method implemented to reverse alkalinity. Peat or sphagnum peat moss is generally acidic and will lower pH better than other organic materials. Adding elemental sulfur is another common practice. A soil test will need to be performed often in order to add the correct amount of sulfur to reach an optimal pH level. Check with your local University Extension office for how to submit a soil test in your area.

Unfortunately, there isn’t a one-time treatment that’s going to get rid of grubs in your lawn. Effective treatment often will take a year or two or more.

Before you head to the store to buy grub-control products for the lawn, a little detective work is needed to determine the cause of the brown patch: grubs or a lawn disease. Treating the wrong lawn problem is unnecessary, ineffective, wasted time and money, and may negatively impact the environment.

Preventive methods of grub control work best, such as maintaining a thick, healthy lawn by fertilizing regularly with Milorganite. Healthy turf may not prevent every grub from dining on roots under your lawn, but it will be much better able to withstand a half-dozen or so  grubs per square foot. The low number of grubs may not even require  treatment.
Dethatching and aerating your lawn helps to remove heavy thatch, reducing the grubs’ food source. It also increases the ability of water, air, and nutrients to get to your lawn’s root system and improve its vigor. 

For more tips on identifying, preventing, and controlling grubs in your lawn, check out our blog.

A healthy, dense stand of grass is your best defense against weeds and is more resistant to insects and diseases. Weeds appear and spread when the growing conditions are better for them than the grass. Correct the problem and provide proper care to manage weeds and improve the health of your lawn. Killing the weeds without fixing the underlying cause is only a temporary solution. Unless the cause is eliminated, the weed problem will return. Removing weeds by hand is time-consuming but the most environmentally friendly way to manage weeds. Natural corn gluten can be used as pre-emergent in fall and spring to reduce the number of weed seeds sprouting in the grass. This, along with proper care, can greatly reduce the weed population in your lawn. Visit our blog for more eco-friendly weed control tips.

Allyn Hane, The Lawn Care Nut" shares tips for using pre-emergent herbicides in spring to help prevent weed problems in your lawn that primarily target crabgrass. For tips on using post-emergent (after they have already come up) weed control for broadleaf weeds.

Consider using a pre-emergent herbicide in spring to help prevent crabgrass, poa annua (annual bluegrass) and foxtail out of your yard. Allyn Hane, The Lawn Care Nut, shares his tips on what pre-emergent herbicide to buy (granular or liquid as well as active ingredient) and when to apply it.

Creeping Charlie, also known as ground ivy, violets, and plantains, is considered a "broadleaf weed," meaning it is a non-grassy weed with wide, flat leaves, making it distinct from the narrow blades of grass; it is particularly problematic in lawns due to its aggressive spreading nature and ability to form dense mats through creeping stems that root at the nodes. This weed usually gets its foothold in the shade and then spreads throughout the rest of the lawn.   

An eco-friendly weed control option is to take back those shady spots in your yard by growing more shade-tolerant grass like the cool-season fescue or warm-season St. Augustine grass. Mow high and fertilize less, only 1 to 2 pounds of nitrogen per growing season, than the sunny areas of your lawn. Or replace the lawn with shade-tolerant groundcovers. Adjust your overall care to reclaim and maintain the rest of the lawn. Check out our blog on eco-friendly weed control.

If Creeping Charlie has taken over large areas of your lawn, we recommend a targeted weed control approach with a broadleaf herbicide. Check out our blog more information on using broadleaf weed control.

Clover (Trifolium) is a perennial, broadleaf weed common throughout the  USA. It has three characteristics: round leaflets on a long stalk and small, round, white, or pinkish/purplish flowers. It’s more resilient than other broadleaf weeds, drought-tolerant, and its low-growing habit evades mower blades. It can quickly spread.

Remove the clover as soon as you see it. It can spread quickly by seed and creeping stems. If the amount of clover in your lawn is minimal,  it’s best to remove it by hand. Loosen the soil to make it easier to remove the entire clover root. If there’s more clover than is practical for hand removal, consider spot treating with an herbicide. If you decide to treat the entire lawn, a broadleaf herbicide application in the fall is very effective. Make sure the herbicide is safe to use on your variety/ies of grass. Otherwise, you may kill the grass along with the clover. Always follow manufacturer instructions and community regulations. Visit our blog more information on managing clover in your lawn.

You are not alone in your struggle with quackgrass! First, we always recommend ensuring proper identification of the weed before managing the weed in your lawn.

Quackgrass often grows due to poor lawn maintenance practices. Maintaining a healthy, dense lawn will outcompete weeds. Check our top lawn care tips.

The University of Michigan State Extension Department of Crop and Soil Sciences suggests managing quackgrass by increased nitrogen fertilization and increased mowing frequency. By increasing the vigor of your lawn, you will choke the quackgrass, make it darker green, and,  for the most part, make it disappear.  
Due to the perennial nature of quackgrass and its well-developed  rhizome system, it is very difficult to remove by mechanical means.  Methods include digging up the offending patches, including several  inches of soil and replacing with new topsoil and reseeding. However,  the rhizomes of quackgrass can grow 6 to 8 feet deep in the ground, and  these rhizomes could potentially "push" new plants to the surface.

Another option is solarization to kill the quackgrass and then reseed your lawn. Or use a non-selective herbicide like Roundup to kill the patches.  Keep in mind that non-selective means that it kills whatever plant it  touches. This method will create dead patches in your lawn that can be re-established.  

A lawn infested with a Southern chinch bug left untreated can kill large parts of the yard in just a week or two! The first step is to confirm that the chinch bugs are the problem.
 
The Dallas County Master Gardening Association provides tips on how to confirm a diagnosis of chinch bugs and how to manage and rid your lawn of these pests.

Chinch bugs like it hot. You’ll find them in the sunniest parts of the yard, often next to a hot sidewalk or driveway, in mid-summer to early fall.  

The first clue you may have chinch bugs in your lawn is patches of dead or stunted grass surrounded by a border of yellowing, dying grass. The best way to confirm you have chinch bugs is to find large numbers in the affected grass of the lawn that is damaged.

You can manage chinch bugs by controlling thatch buildup, applying the correct amount of fertilizer and water to the lawn, and not planting varieties of St. Augustine that are susceptible to them. For more information on managing chinch bugs.

If no more than 50% of your lawn is filled with weeds or damaged, renovation can help you boost its appearance without killing the grass and starting over. It will take time, water, and effort on your part, so like any other project.

If your lawn is more than 50-60% weeds or bare soil starting over will provide the best long-term results. Use this opportunity to create an excellent foundation for growing a healthy lawn. You will need to kill any existing grass and weeds before you prepare the soil. Mix several inches of organic matter and Milorganite into the top 6 to 8 inches of soil before planting seeds or sod. Then water often enough to encourage support seed germination or root development in the sod. 

For more details on starting a lawn from seed follow the journey of the Milorganite's agronomist. Also, check out our blog for tips on renewing and renovating your lawn.

We’re seeing a trend to introduce clover to lawns for a low-maintenance lawn that helps provide nitrogen to the grass. However, most homeowners continue to prefer the clover-free, weed-free lawn.

Clover (Trifolium) is a perennial, broadleaf weed common throughout the  USA. It has three characteristics: round leaflets on a long stalk and small, round, white, or pinkish/purplish flowers. It’s more resilient than other broadleaf weeds, drought-tolerant, and its low-growing habit evades mower blades.  

Remove the clover as soon as you see it. It can spread quickly by seed and creeping stems. If the amount of clover in your lawn is minimal,  it’s best to remove it by hand. Loosen the soil to make it easier to remove the entire clover root. If there’s more clover than is practical for hand removal, consider spot treating with an herbicide. If you decide to treat the entire lawn, a broadleaf herbicide application in the fall is very effective. Make sure the herbicide is safe to use on your variety/ies of grass. Otherwise, you may kill the grass along with the clover. Always follow manufacturer instructions and community regulations. For more information, check our blogs on managing clover in your lawn and for eco-friendly weed control tips.

If your lawn is more than 60 percent weeds or bare soil, starting over will provide the best long-term results. Use this opportunity to create a great foundation for growing a healthy lawn. You will need to kill any existing grass and weeds before you prepare the soil. Mix several inches of organic matter and Milorganite into the top 6 to 8 inches of soil before planting seeds or sod. Then water enough to encourage support seed germination or root development in the sod. For more details on starting a lawn from seed follow the journey of the Milorganite's agronomist.

If no more than 30 to 50% of your lawn is filled with weeds or damaged, renovation can help you boost its appearance without killing the grass and starting over. It will take time, water, and effort on your part, so like any other project, make a plan and schedule the work when it's best for the lawn and your schedule. Check out our blog on how to renovate your lawn.

Since plant growth is dependent on the weather, it is important to time your renovation based on the grass you are growing. Cool-season grasses like bluegrass, fescue, and perennial rye are best renovated in the fall when the soil is warm, and the temperatures are usually a bit cooler, perfect for seed sprouting. Renewing the lawn in spring is the second-best time, but the stress of hot, dry summers can make it more difficult for the grass to establish, and you will spend more time watering.

We hope you're feeling better this fall! It sounds like you have more weeds than you can comfortably remove by hand. Therefore, it may be time to spot-treat weeds using a broadleaf herbicide. Some herbicides are weed-specific, so it’s best to first identify the weeds in your lawn.

Spot-treating weeds with an herbicide is particularly effective in the fall. Like grass, weeds are storing nutrients for the winter ahead.  It’s actively taking up nutrients, which means the herbicide will be more readily taken up as well.

Use a broad-leaf herbicide and ensure it’s compatible with the turfgrass varieties in your lawn. Some broad-leaf herbicides kill some grass varieties. Don’t use a non-selective herbicide! It kills everything! When using any lawn care chemicals, please follow all label instructions carefully. For more tips to get your lawn back on track this fall, check out our blog.

Shawn Askew, PhD Associate Professor, Turf Weed Specialist Virginia Tech, recommends the best way to control bermudagrass is by raising the mowing height of cool-season grasses into the “jungle” range because bermudagrass can’t tolerate low light. Research has shown that tall fescue can completely kill bermudagrass at a mowing height of 4 inches without the use of herbicides. Your fescue will be so happy; it will give you a darker green color, more drought resistance,  more disease resistance, and, of course, a barrier against weeds. 

Tall fescue is a wide-bladed clump grass, commonly used in pastures. The textural difference between fescue and cool-season grasses in a lawn is evident because of its clumps. You can dig out the clumps, but ensure you remove all the roots. Then re-seed or re-sod after removal and apply Milorganite to help nurture the new seedlings or sod.

If you choose a chemical control method, spray fescue clumps with glyphosate when growing, which will also kill all turf species you spray, and you will need to re-seed or re-sod this area in your lawn. Check out the Colorado State's website for more information on managing tall fescue in your lawn.

According to a Penn State Extension publication: "Stiltgrass is an annual grass which germinates in the spring and grows slowly through the summer months. Its root system is shallow and weak. It tolerates full sun to heavy shade. Stiltgrass spreads through a high production of seeds and also by sprouting new shoots from the stems that come in contact with the ground. A single plant may produce between 100 and 1,000 seeds that can remain viable in the soil for at least three years. Stiltgrass thrives in areas subject to regular soil disturbances such as flooding, mowing, tilling, and high foot traffic. The small seeds may be carried by animal fur, water during heavy rains, contaminated hay, potted plants, or soil and mud stuck to footwear." The key to controlling stiltgrass is to prevent it from setting seed. Check out PennState Extension website for information on how to manage small and large infestations.

The Alabama Cooperative Extension System has excellent information on Controlling Fall Armyworms on Lawns and Turf to help you identify, manage, and chemical control options for army worms in your lawn. Good luck!

We have no research or customer concerns to share that Milorganite attacks Ants. Ants typically prefer dry, well-drained soils with a low water-holding capacity in sunny locations. Ants seldom cause severe damage to home lawns but can be a nuisance! They may cause minor damage to your lawn by loosening the soil and constructing small mounds. Ants also feed on honeydew (sticky sugary substance) excreted by aphids, mealybugs, and soft scales.

The secret of success in controlling an ant infestation is to locate and destroy the nest, including the queen and her young. There are several registered insecticides that can be applied  on home lawns. Careful spot treatments of ant hills with a registered control material will help reduce ant populations. For more information on managing ants in your lawn, at the University of Nebraska-Lincoln and Penn State Extension. 
 

We produce only Milorganite fertilizer, which does not have any added herbicides to kill weeds.

The best way to keep weeds at bay is by maintaining a healthy lawn that can outcompete weeds. Fertilize with Milorganite according to the schedule, aerate as needed, and overseed when necessary. For more information on how to have a healthy and thick lawn. For eco-friendly ways to get rid of crabgrass, clover, creeping charlie, and other broadleaf weeds, check out the eco-friendly weed control blog. 

Please be cautious when using poison to as an animal deterrent. Often it can cause more harm than good to animals and the environment.

Fencing is the best, although not always practical, way to prevent  wildlife damage. Scare tactics are less effective on wildlife in urban environments.  They are used to human scents and sounds. Lights and sounds triggered by motion sensors tend to be more effective. Repellents that make plants taste or smell bad to animals can also help. You will find products containing things like garlic, hot pepper  oil, and predator urine. For more tips, check out our blog. 

Customers tell us they use Milorganite to repel deer, rabbits, and moles and have success. Milorganite® fertilizer makes no claims regarding its use as a  repellent. Research has shown the use of Milorganite can help deter deer.

Customers tell us they use Milorganite to repel deer, rabbits, and moles and have success. Milorganite® fertilizer makes no claims regarding its use as a  repellent. Research has shown the use of Milorganite can help deter deer.
We recommend appling Milorganite four times per year or applying every 8-10 weeks during the grass growing season. The specific timing when you fertilize will depend on whether you have northern (cool) season grass or southern (warm) season grass.
 

It sounds like you have a new lawn weed in your yard. The most environmentally friendly option is to pull the weeds by hand and ensure you get all of the roots. If there are too many weeds to manage spot spray the weeds with a weed killer. Your local garden center can help with organic weed herbicide options in your area. The best way to keep weeds at bay is by maintaining a healthy lawn. Fertilize with Milorganite according to the schedule, aerate as needed, and overseed when necessary. For eco-friendly ways to get rid of crabgrass, clover, creeping charlie, and other broadleaf weeds, check out the eco-friendly weed control blog and video.